Installing Tsunamis

by Stephen Hatch
Railway Engineering

First remove the trucks from the tender.
They are spring clips on this model so just move the clips sideways with a screw driver tip and they will come off.
Don't let the spring underneath fly out and away.

Second remove the four screws from the bottom of the tender floor. They are vary obvious on PBL.

Now the cab screws. You can see them in this picture. All four must come out.

Now remove the two screws at the back of the cab under the deck apron.
And remove the front truck screw holding the truck and the boiler on.
there is a washer here under the spring.

Slide the cab and backhead rearward off of the cab floor.
Un hook the wire (blowoff lever) connected to the front lever on the engineers side.first.then
the boiler slides forward tilting up as you go.

Take off the tender shell carefully...it has PBL sound parts in it (usually)
remove any and all parts including the switch.

Don't take out the speaker unless it is one of the large ones.
If it is a large speaker, then remove it and use one of the
flat speakers from Tony's trains. They have great sound
and leave plenty of room. In C-18's and wider tenders (k's)
I use the Large Oval Speaker

Also remove any of the bunker walls that might be in here.

We need the parts to fit

I drill two holes through the floor up front under where the water bunker will cover it.
you can see them with the wires coming out.

By the way, I use a small piece of shrink tubing to keep the draw bar on the tender

The speaker mounts to the floor (I use barges cement)
and the decoder lays right over the top of it.
the capacitor is coiled up in the back clear of the screw plate.
You can use a small piece of double sided tape if you want.

Feed the orange,gray,and white wires down through the hole on the left side.
feed the brown, green,red and tan down the right side hole.
The tan wire comes out the end with the two purple wires. (it looks white)
Solder the black wire to the floor anywhere convenient. (scratch off paint)
Solder the two purple wires to the speaker terminals.

Feed the orange, gray, red, and brown wires up though the motor cavity hole.
The orange and gray wires solder to the motor terminals.
Usually the upper right is orange. If the loco runs backward, we'll switch these.
Solder the red wire to the frame anywhere convenient. Or where the PBL wire was.
run the white and brown leads all the way forward to the front of the boiler.
Remove the capacitor and wire from the cam wiper and solder on the tan wire.

The inside back of the boiler front will hold the wafer.
disconnect the old wire from the motor

Hook up the white and brown wires like this as well as the markers and lights. Then stick the wafer with dble sided tape to the inside of the boiler front.

The other wire of all these bulbs is already grounded.

Ok put it all back together.

Take the 12 volt firebulb and attach the green wire to one leg of it.
the other end is grounded to the loco.
Stuff it in the hole under the motor. Paint one side of it red.....not both sides.
makes a better fire color if it has some yellow in the flicker.

OK let's talk settings.
On Digitraxx and NCE

It's easy to program on the main with both of these systems and you don't need a booster or anything.
On NCE push the lower left corner button once (prog/esc button)

That asks "program on the main? push enter
it asks " Prog loco #?" the new decoder is #3 enter that and push enter key.
it asks " 1 adr 2 cv 3 cfg" push 1
it asks " 1=LONG 2=SHORT" press 1 or 2 depending on your loco number.
just follow it's instructions.

The same with digitrax 400 throttles.
press prog and press it again until the display saya po (it has 4 modes ph, pd,pr, po)
you want po
PO will bring up the address of the loco you were last running.
So enter 3 before you start programing and it will be ready.

Ok settings vary with every ones opinion. So maybe I should just tell you what I like.

I set this list in all my locos.

CV # __ entry ___what it does
2 ----------10 ------- start voltage
3 ----------8 -------- start delay
4 ----------25 ------- momentum
10 ---------35 ------- Turn on chuff and coast
33 ---------65 ------- Headlight always on when dyno is on
34 ---------65 ------- headlight on even in reverse
43 ---------128 ------ Water fill on F9
45 ---------4 -------- F11 function on
52 ---------13 ------- fire flicker on F6
61 ---------200 ------ braking rate
112 --------129 ------ set dual pumps and cam activated chuff
115 --------0 to 7 --- select whistle
128 --------100 ------ master volumn (default is 192)
131 --------60 ------- chuff volumn
135 --------1 -------- rod clank volumn
198 --------24 ------- brakes and hiss (26 will add whistles)
212 --------255 ------ turn on dynamic digital exhaust
217 --------2 -------- turn on back EMF

E-mail To: Stephen Hatch @ Railway Engineering
- 2875F Northtowne Ln. #361 - Reno NV 89512
Copyright © Railway Engineering 1996 all rights reserved
Completely SOLAR POWERED


The installation in the tenders is the easy part. It's the wires
routing through the frame and boiler to the front of the loco that
vary so much. There is usually a path that the wires can take
through the back below the frame then up into the motor compartment.
Here you leave the orange and gray wires for the motor.
Then the white and brown wires continue forward through the boiler
to the front and out the boiler front. The Walton resistor wafer is
installed right behind the boiler front with double sided tape
The wafer is wired and soldered first and then attached to the
boiler front. The bulb for the cab is attached to the brown resistor
lead and sent back to the top of the boiler. The chuff wire comes
across the bottom of the loco frame to the cam and the green wire
of the fire light bulb (12 volt) only comes to the rear of the loco
atr the bottom and into the fire box. But that's six wires at a
minimum from tender to loco. Sounds bad but it isn't really.
They work just fine three on each side and look like hoses.
I don't use connectors. Big bulk under there that's unnecessary.
No reason to separate the tender and loco once it's hooked up.


You see what I'm getting
to is you need to take the loco completely apart. And the tender.


I use the oval speakers from Tony's trains. The medium oval seems to
fit C's and up and has excellent sound but the best part is they are
flat. The Tsunami can sit right on top of the speaker.


You need to take apart the tender and look and see how much room
you have to know if you have to remove bunker linners.
The flat speaker will help you here. C-16 tenders are small but
they still fit everything. John's bumblebee c-16 had plenty of
room but there was no "bunker" under the coal. On my C-21, I left
the bunker half empty of coal because the speaker and Tsunami both
fit under the coal and to the rear.


Best would be if you can take the tender off (4 screws) and
look to see how much room you have. I'd be happy to help you
through it if you'd like. Just e-mail me here and I'll
respond.

Stephen Hatch @ Railway Engineering