E-Mail to: C-D-S Lettering - Tom Hood
C-D-S Lettering Ltd.
P.O. Box 65074
Nepean, Ontario K2G 5Y3

CDS Narrow gauge lettering sets.
These are film free dry transfers that are easily applied. Each set contains sufficient material to completely letter one car or locomotive and includes information on lettering placement, car numbers and colours. All sets are available in several scales including : 1:160 (N), 1:87 (HO), 1:64 (S), 1:48 (O) and 1:24 (G) Please specify scale when ordering. Some sets are available in several colours, please specify colour when ordering. Each set has been researched using photographs of actual rolling stock in service. There was at least one item of stock painted as depicted by the set. For some of the older car styles, produced from black and white photographs, the colours suggested are typical of the period as the exact colours are unknown. The C. dates in the following list indicate the years the style began to become in use. The colour given in the following list is the main colouring of the lettering. COLORADO & SOUTHERN (36" gauge) 222 Steam locomotive C.1910 & 1935 available in either silver or white Note 18 223 Cabooses white or black and white herald Note 1 229 30' box block lettering white C.1910 230 30' box circular herald white C.1935 231 30' coal car (gondola) block lettering white C.1910 232 30' coal car (gondola) circular herald white C.1935 233 30' refrigerator circular herald black C.1935 241 30' refrigerator block herald black C.1910 477 30' box St. Charles lettering white C.1899 Note 2 478 30' gondola St. Charles lettering white C.1899 Note 2 479 30' refrigerator St. Charles lettering black C.1899 Note 2 514 passenger cars C.1920+ Note 3 available in either gold or imitation gold DENVER & RIO GRANDE (36" gauge) 176 30' box white C.1903 Note 4 206 30' refrigerator white C.1908 352 28' refrigerator number 113 white C.1898 514 30' refrigerator billboard "Rocky Mountain States Route" black C.1883 Note 5 643 24' ventilated car "California Fruit Line" black C.1883 Note 5 644 24' refrigerator billboard "Butter Eggs & Beer" black C.1890 Note 6 DENVER & RIO GRANDE WESTERN (36" gauge) Note 7 302 steam locomotive circular herald white C.1924,C.1936 82 steam locomotive flying Grande white C.1945 387 steam locomotive world's fair black C.1949 Note 16 387 steam locomotive bumble-bee black C.1950 201 30'/34' stock flying Grande white C.1941 202 30' caboose circular herald white C.1924,C.1936 Note 17 203 30' caboose flying Grande white C.1941 204 30' box circular herald white C.1924,C.1936 Note 17 205 30' box flying Grande white C.1941 207 30'/40' refrigerator circular herald black C.1924,C.1936 Note 17 208 30'/40' refrigerator flying Grande black C.1941 209 30' gondola circular herald white C.1924,C.1936 Note 17 325 30' gondola flying Grande white C.1941 465 30' drop bottom gondola circular herald white C.1924,C.1936 Note 17 326 30' drop bottom gondola flying Grande white C.1941 343 41' steel flatcar flying Grande white C.1941 (6500 series) 349 UTLX tankcar frameless Gramps yellow C.1950 306 postal/baggage/combine C.1925+ Note 3 305 passenger cars C.1925+ above two available in either gold or imitation gold or white DENVER, SOUTH PARK & PACIFIC (36" gauge) 173 Steam Locomotive white C.1885, C.1890 170 26'/27' refrigerator Union Pacific black C.1885 171 27' refrigerator Tiffany black C.1883 174 28' box white C.1881 175 28' box U.P.D.& G. white C.1885 636 caboose way car black C.1885 Note 8 FLORENCE & CRIPPLE CREEK (36" gauge) 139 30' box gold belt white C.1900 339 steam locomotive gold C.1900 185 22' caboose gold belt gold C.1900 Note 19 NEWFOUNDLAND RAILWAY (42" gauge) 335 36' boxcar single sheath white C.1941 Note 9 336 36' refrigerator single sheath black C.1945 337 steam locomotive white C.1940 CANADIAN NATIONAL (Newfoundland Div.) (42" gauge) 436 G-8 Diesel Locomotive black and yellow C.1956 163 Diesel Locomotive white noodle C.1965 RHAETIAN RAILWAY (Switzerland) (metre gauge) Note 10 464 coach silver C.1988 RIO GRANDE SOUTHERN (36" gauge) 340 steam locomotive large numbers white C.1935+ 133 steam locomotive rising sun herald white C.1945 above two available in either white or silver 382 steam locomotive 20, 22, 25 white C.1950 Note 11 373 steam locomotive ship herald 20 white C.1949 Note 12 303 passenger cars C.1925+ Note 3 available in either gold or imitation gold or white 342 30' box white C.1938 Note 13 316 30' refrigerator black C.1938 Note 13 SILVERTON RAILROAD (36" gauge) 653 steam locomotives 100 and 101 gold C.1888 SOUTH PACIFIC COAST (36" gauge) 491 28' wood box circular herald white C.1888 WEST SIDE LUMBER Co. (36" gauge) 348 steam geared locomotive orange C.1955 Note 14 available in orange, yellow and white WHITE PASS & YUKON (36" gauge) 380 steam locomotive early gold C.1898 140 steam locomotive initials gold C.1930+ 141 steam locomotive flying Pass white C.1945 142 diesel locomotive 90 class green, yellow C.1975 328 diesel locomotive blue & white C.1982 389 diesel locomotive 101 class green, yellow C.1975 143 passenger cars initials yellow C.1975 381 30' wood box original white C.1901 144 30' wood box full name yellow C.1940 145 30' wood box White Pass yellow C.1942 Note 20 146 30' wood box flying Pass yellow C.1975 Note 20 147 30' wood refrigerator White Pass black C.1942 148 tank car flying Pass white C.1975 181 30' caboose thunderbird white C.1955 Note 15 Miscellaneous items : Alphabets are available in black, gold, imitation gold, red, silver, white and yellow X-1 3/32 inch Roman X-2 3/32 inch extended Roman X-3 3/32 inch Gothic X-4 3/32 inch extended Gothic X-5 1/16 inch Railroad Roman X-6 3/32 inch Railroad Roman X-7 1/8 inch Railroad Roman X-8 3/16 inch Railroad Roman X-9 1/4 inch Railroad Roman 150 6" scale Extended Roman for Passenger letter board Stripes approximately 4' (in 4" sections) available in black, gold, imitation gold, red, silver, white and yellow ST-1 1/64 inch ST-2 1/32 inch ST-3 3/64 inch ST-4 1/16 inch Illustrated diagram book showing all of the available sets (some 650 total) both standard and narrow gauge with information on car styles, numbering and lettering placement. Note 1 : The C&S caboose set includes material to letter car for either the 1912 block style or the later black and white circular herald. Note 2 : The C&S lettering style used only on car series built by St. Charles Car Co. in December 1898. This was just before the C&S was formed. Note 3 : Lettering on passenger cars was often gold leaf in the early days. Later this was changed to an imitation gold paint. The imitation gold looks brighter on the models. Note 4 : The lettering style as delivered in 1903. The letter W, in a slightly different style, was later added to cars that had not yet been rebuilt after the word Western was added to the corporate name. Note 5 : From the photograph on Marshall Pass in 1883. Note 6 : From photograph of Creede in about 1890. Note 7 : There are some subtle differences in the Denver & Rio Grande Western narrow gauge lettering. It evolved over the years. Cars painted before about 1950 usually had the stencil marks filled in. After that they were often not. There were also changes in the details of the tails in the flying Grande herald. The early (1940's) narrow gauge cars had a slightly shorter and wider tail than the cars painted in the 1950s and 1960s. The detail of the letter G also changed over the years with early cars having no "chin" on the right bottom, while modern cars (1960s) sometimes had this chin. The CDS sets were developed based on photos of early cars and thus have the fatter flying Grande and the stencil marks filled in. These details may be used to distinguish the desired era for a model layout. (Sets 205, 326 and 343 have the more modern appearance.) Note 8 : Denver, South Park and Pacific, for the Way Car with the black lettering and red drop shadow on a light coloured car. From the Jackson photo in Platte Canyon. Note 9 : Newfoundland Railway cars with black and white N. R. Herald. Note 10 : Available in 1:64 scale on special order only. Note 11 : Rio Grande Southern ten wheeler locomotives only. Includes the unique rising sun herald used on number 20. Note 12 : For locomotive number 20 as operated after the movie Ticket to Tomahawk with the painting of the sailing ship on the tender. This transfer involves layering several colours to form the illustration. The ship faced forwards and thus the two sides of the tender are different Note 13 : These are the former Colorado & Southern cars as painted and operated by receiver Miller. Note 14 : Westside lettering changed colour over the years. White was used in the early days with pale yellow and orange being used later. Note 15 : The thunderbird herald was also used on the nose of the 90 class locomotives during the mid-1950's. This transfer involves layering several colours to form the illustration. Note 16 : Engine 268 painted for the Cripple Creek & Tin Cup railroad for the Chicago Railroad fair in 1949. Later a similar style with Denver & Rio Grande Western was used on locomotives 268 and 473 during the early 1950s. Note 17 : When the cars received their first major rebuilding in the early 1920's, they were repainted with a circular herald advertising the Royal Gorge Route. In 1936, the Moffat tunnel was completed and cars repainted after this received a herald advertising both the Royal Gorge and the Moffat Tunnel. Note 18 : The early locomotives were painted with aluminum leaf with the intertwined C&S logo on the cab for those locomotives with steel cab sides. This was adjusted in size and spacing to fit the smaller cabs (about 1902 to 1906). Later the name Colorado & Southern was spelled out on the tender and the colour changed to white after about 1910. Note 19 : For cabooses 5 and 6. Number 5 was lettered for the Florence & Cripple Creek with the Gold belt herald. Number 6 was lettered for the Canon City & Cripple Creek and the Florence & Cripple Creek. Gold lettering on red cars. Note 20 : The White Pass herald evolved. Early version had rounded W with angular streaks. Later version had straight W with pointed streaks rather like the flying Grande of the D&RGW.
ENGLISH NOTES FOR APPLYING DRY TRANSFER LETTERING 1. Make sure that the surface of the model is dry and free from grease. For best results, wait at least 48 hours after painting before application of the lettering. A matte paint surface is preferable to a gloss one. 2. Position the transfer sheet in the exact location on the model and hold in place securely. Use adhesive tape if necessary. It is often more convenient to cut the transfer sheet into smaller sections that are easier to handle. Dividers are a helpful tool for measuring to align the lettering. 3. Using a burnishing tool (such as a soft pencil, a hardwood burnisher, or an artist's ball burnishing tool), rub lightly over the entire area of the lettering. This will tentatively transfer the lettering to the model. Then repeat the burnishing by carefully and completely rubbing over each letter. This will fully transfer the lettering to the model. A firm pressure is required, but care must be used as too much pressure may distort the lettering, tear the transfer sheet, or damage the model. 4. After all of the lettering has been transferred, remove the transfer sheet carefully from the model. Then place the plain backing sheet over the lettering and burnish firmly a third time to permanently fix the lettering onto the model's surface. 5. When applying the lettering over rivets or surface detail, gently work the ink around the protrusions and into the cracks. If necessary, any broken letters can be repaired using matching paint or by using parts of unused letters as patches. 6. Some of the transfers must be applied in several layers to make multi-coloured heralds. It is best to apply a light coat of clear matte varnish between each coloured layer. This prevents the burnishing of the outer layers from disturbing the inner ones. Make sure the varnish is completely dry before applying the next layer. 7. When the lettering is complete, it may be protected by applying a light overcoat of varnish. The overcoat may be either gloss or matte depending on your preference for the model to look "new" or slightly "weathered". If you wish, further weathering may now be applied with your favorite technique.
FRANCAIS Mode d'emploi pour "CDS LETTERING" 1. Assurez vous que la surface du mod?le soit s?che et sans graisse. Pour de meilleurs r?sultats, attendez au moins 48 heures apr?s avoir peindu avant l'application des caract?res. Une surface ? peinture mate est pr?f?rable a celle brillante. 2. Mettez en position la feuille de transfert dans l'endoit exact sur le mod?le et tenez dans cet endroit solidement. Utilisez ruban adhesif si c'est necessaire. Parfois, c'est plus conv?nient si vous coupez la feuille de transfert en sections plus petites, ce qui est plus facile ? manoeuvrer. 3. Utilisant un outil bruni (comme un crayon doux, un brunissoir en bois de feuille, ou le brunisseur d'un artiste) frottez l?g?rement sur toute la partie des caract?res. Cela transferera provisoirment les caract?res au mod?le. Puis, r?p?tez le brunissement en totalement frottant chaque lettre soinneusment. Cela transferera compl?tement les caract?res au mod?le. Une pression ferme est requise, mais attention doit ?tre pr?ter parce que trop de pression peut alt?rer les caract?res, d?chirer la feuille de transfert, ou endommager le mod?le. 4. Apres avoir transf?rer tous les caract?res, enlevez la feuille de transfert soigneusement du mod?le. Puis, placez la feuille de papier transparent par dessus les caract?res et brunit solidement une troisieme fois pour fixer en promanence les caract?res sur la surface du mod?le. 5. Quand vous appliquez les caract?res pardessus des rivets ou des rainures, manoeuvrez doucement l'encreautour des avanc?es et dedans les f?lure. Si c'est n?cessaire, vous pouvez r?parer des caract?res brises utilisant de la peinture assortie ou utilisant des sections des caract?res qui n'etaient pas utilis?es comme pi?ces. 6. Certains de transferts doivent ?tre appliquer en plusieurs couches pour cr?er des h?rauts de couleurs varies. Il est mieux appliquer une l?g?r couche de vernis a peinture mate entre chaque couche color?e. Cela emp?che le brunissement de couches ext?rieures a rompre celles a l'int?rieur. Assurez vous que le vernis soit compl?tement s?che avant d'appliquer la prochaine couche. 7. Quand l'application des caract?res est compl?t?e, vous pouvez la prot?ger en appliquant une l?g?re couche de vernis. La couche peut ?tre soit a peinture mate, soit a peinture brillante. Cela d?pend si vous preferez que la mod?le parait nouveau ou partiellement intemperi. Si vous desirez, vous pouvez maintenant appliquer le fini us? en utilisant votre m?thode favorie.
DEUTSCH Anleitung zum Beschriften mit "CDS LETTERING" 1. Vergewissern Sie sich, dass die Oberfl?che des Modells trocken und fettfrei ist. F?r beste Resultate sollte mindestens 48 Stunden, seit dem Spritzen des Modells, mit dem Beschriften zugewartet werden. Ein matter Finish ist einem Glanzfinish vorzuziehn. 2. Plazieren Sie das Beschriftungsblatt genau auf die vorgesehene Position auf dem Modell. N?tigenfalls Klebband zum Fixieren verwenden. Meistens ist es von Vorteil das Beschriftungsblatt in kleinere st?cke zu unterteilen, welche einfacher zu handhaben sind. Ein Messzirkel hilft beim Positionieren. 3. Mit einem Abreibstift (oder auch Hartholzstift, weicher Bleistift) wird die Abreibeschrift gesamthaft m?ssig ?bertragen. Nun ist die Schrift provisorisch fixiert, darauf sorgf?ltig und exakt jeden Buchstaben einzeln nachreiben. Durch das wird die Beschriftung voll ?bertragen. Bei diesm Vorgang ist mit sattem Druck zu arbeiten, ohne aber so fest zu dr?cken dass Verzerrungen in der Beschriftung vorkommen. Oder gar das Deckblatt reisst und das Modell besch?digt wird. 4. Nachdem die Beschriftung ?bertragen ist wird das Deckblatt vorsichtig entfernt. Nun wird das Zwischenblatt (durchsichtig) ?ber die Beschriftung gelegt und alles ein drittes Mal sorgf?ltig mit dem Abriebstift nachgerieben. Damit sollte die Beschriftung bleibend aufgebracht sein. 5. Beim Anbringen von Schriften ?ber Nieten, Fugen oder erhabenen Details sollten die einzelnen Buchstaben und Zahlen sehr vorsichtig ?bertragen werden. Falls n?tig, k?nnen gebrochene Schriftteile mit dem entsprechenden Farbton retouchiert werden oder nich verwendete Teile der Beschriftung zur Reparatur gebraucht werden. 6. Einige der Beschriftungss?tze m?ssen in mehreren Schichten aufgebracht werden um mehrfarbige Bilder zu erhalten. Dabei empfiehlt sich das Auftragen einer d?nnen Schicht von mattem Klarlack nach jeder Lage Abreibschrift. Dies verh?tet Schaden an der vorhergehenden Schicht beim Auftragen der n?chsten. Der Mattlack muss absolut trocken sein bevor die n?chste Schicht aufgebracht wird. 7. Nachdem das Modell fertig beschriftet ist, kann es nochmals mit Klarlack bespr?ht werden. Ob nun Matt-oder Glanzlack verwendet wird h?ngt vom gew?nschten Endeffekt ab. Sowie der Klarlack trocken ist, kann nun das Modell eventuell noch verwittert und gealtert werden.
Not for CDS but may be of interest :
1. Make sure that the surface of the model is dry and free from grease. For best results, wait at least 48 hours after painting before application of the lettering. A smooth gloss paint surface is preferable to a matte one. 2. Determine the sections of the transfer to be applied and cut these from the large sheet carefully with scissors. Trim the transfer as close as possible to the lettering or herald. The closer the cut edge is to the lettering the less the transfer film will show on the model. If the letters have a long straight edge, cut along the edge. Otherwise avoid long straight cuts and try to trim in a series of curves around the letters and numbers. 3. Prepare a soaking solution in a small dish. Choose a dish, such as a saucer, that is not easily spilled. In most cases tap water with a tiny bit of detergent is suitable. However, if your tap water typically leaves water spots when it dries it would be better to use distilled water with a bit of detergent to act as a wetting agent. 4. Soak the transfer section in the water dish. While it is soaking use a small brush to wet the surface of the model where the transfer will be applied. The transfer needs to be soaked long enough so that it can be easily slid from the backing paper. It is usually best not to let the transfer float off the paper in the dish as some transfers with a very thin film can easily tangle when removed from the water. A pair of tweezers with small flat ends are helpful for handling the transfer pieces. For very small transfer pieces (such as individual numbers), rather than soaking in the dish where they are difficult to handle, an alternative is to put a drop of water on the end of a finger and put the section in the drop and keep it wet until the transfer can be slid on the paper. 5. Remove the soaked transfer and its backing paper from the water and slide the transfer a bit so that an edge extends over the paper. Put this edge on the model in the area previously wetted. Hold it in place with tweezers or a pointer and slide the backing paper out from under the transfer so that the lettering settles down onto the model. Note, slide the paper out from under the transfer film, do not slide the transfer off the paper as it may tangle. Be sure there are no bubbles in the water under the transfer. If there are, slide the transfer around and poke at it until the bubbles come to the edge. 6. There should be just enough water on the surface that the transfer can be moved around but not so much that it floats freely. A bit of tissue touched to the edge of the water can be used to draw away excess moisture. Do not blot the transfer as this will remove too much water and the transfer often sticks to the blotter. Slide the transfer carefully until it is in the exact position. Dividers are a helpful tool for measuring to align the lettering. 7. When the lettering is positioned, apply a small amount of setting solution to the moist area around the transfer. For large transfers some may also be applied to the surface of the transfer, however it is important to get the first application of fluid underneath the transfer to draw it down onto the surface. Let this almost (but not completely) dry and then repeat with further applications and drying periods until the film has been dissolved as much as desired. Some transfers adhere well after a single application of setting fluid, and further applications may cause the lettering to distort. Others take several applications to adhere properly. It is best to experiment with a few test pieces when beginning with a brand of transfer you have not used before. 8. Often when the transfer is completely dry there will be spots around the transfer from the water and the dissolved film. These can be removed by wiping with some plain water and a cotton swab. 9. When the lettering is complete, it may be protected by applying a light overcoat of varnish. The overcoat may be either gloss or matte depending on your preference for the model to look "new" or slightly "weathered". If you wish, further weathering may now be applied with your favorite technique.
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