DCC isn't difficult
DCC isn't difficult
DCC isn't difficult
DCC isn't difficult
DCC isn't difficult

DCC hookups made Easy

  Red and black they go to the track
  orange and gray the motors the way
  Blue and white they go to the light
  Yellow so mellow puts on the back light.
  Purple's the burble the speaker puts out.
  Tan don't huff it does the chuff.
  Everything left is a function no doubt.
  (F5 brown, F6 green wires)

 Try this and you'll see how easy it is to remember.
 These are the colors from decoders. They all
 do the same function no matter the brand.
 -Steve Hatch

   I also routinely hook up the speaker and the decoder
on the bench with the black and red leads clipped to
the track.  Then the decoder just burbles away on
my bench and I can make sure everything works BEFORE
I put it in the loco.

   All decoders come programmed as loco #3.

So you select 3 on your control.
Hook the orange and gray to any loco motor you have
lying around. Press the throttle on #3 and the
motor will run (on your bench) Carefull it will dance around.
Hook the white and blue to a 12 volt bulb....
press -0- on your controller and the light will come on.

 Same with yellow and blue for a rear light. (in reverse)

 Press the whistle (#2 on any controller) 
and the whistle will blow.

  Press #1 and the bell will ring.
Right there on your bench.  It gives you a lot of confidence
to see it work and test it all without having to commit
to a locomotive. 

   On non sound decoders, you just don't have the purple
wires to the speaker. You still have red/black orange/gray
white/blue  yellow etc. wires.  Just no sound. But it will
run a motor and lights etc.

   You can get a 15 dollar decoder and experiment all day
on your work bench.

   Now when it comes to setting up CV's.....just ask here.
We will help step you through anything you can imagine.
There are literally hundreds of different settings but
don't worry..... most of them are pre-set by the factory.

    CV's are the little memory notches in the decoder where
we tell the decoder what to do.

  for instance....
I want the motor to slow down gradually on it's own when
I turnoff the speed.    So I put a 5 in cv 4.

I want to change the loco's number from 3 .... well the
3 is stored in cv 1  so if I put a 30 in cv 1 then the loco
will only run if I select loco 30 on my throttle and not 3.
and the lights etc.

 See it is actually very simple.  There's just a lot of it.
But take one step at a time and you will be rewarded with
a lot more fun running trains.

   I think that's enough for now.....that's the basics
   If you decide on a Digitrax system, or NCE we can help
with much more specific questions.
   Or whatever system you decide on.

   Remember the decoders will all be the same cv's and the
same controls, just the system running them is slightly

   Also... every system I've seen is simple to hook up.
You pull off the wires from your transformer and hook the
wires (2) from the DCC unit right there.  Your done.

Don't worry about power shields and power boosters and
all that stuff. Not yet.  The DCC can hook right in
where your DC was hooked in.
    Just turn all your blocks ON... because the locos will
run when you tell them to.....not because of blocks.

   One more thing..... Digitrax is the one system that will
let you run locos without a decoder in them.  So you can
test run the loco BEFORE you put a decoder in it.

    Just select 00 on the throttle and it will run any
loco on the railroad that doesn't have a decoder.
   NCE won't do that. Most systems won't do that.

So get a transformer.... hook it to the DCC box...2 wires.
....hook the DCC box to the track ... 2 wires....
and my railroad is now DCC not DC....  see how simple?

There is no plus or minus so the wires don't matter which
one hooks to which..... Can't hook it wrong.

    Now dial up 00 on your digitrax and run your locos
just like you did before with the transformer.


I better shut up...I'm rambling.

Any questions?????

-Stephen Hatch (deviner of secrets)(teller of truths)