Bridle for stub Turnouts
Steve - I've bought your stub switches before, and was impressed with the
pin in the bottom scheme, but wondered how you managed to do the soldering.
How do you do this?-- Anne Ogborn
I notch the base of the rail with the dremel and cut off disk
on the outside of the rail. The pin sticks up in this slot
that is very clean (because of the dremel cut)
I hold the rail with my tweezers and heat and touch the solder
till it flows. Takes a fraction of a second. Does that help?
-Steve Hatch WTA (answer)
Here is how I do my stub bridles.
-Stephen Hatch WTA
I notice you mention putting an electrical gap in the PC tie.
I've been doing this with a knife, and I'm really dissatisfied with that
technique. Invariably I end up slicing partway through the tie itself
and weakening it. Is there a better way?
Yes...turn your file on a 45 angle. (on it's corner)
A couple of draws across the copper will put a gap.
I've been wondering about using a small brush, dipped in PC etching
solution, brushed across the tie. Would this be enough to etch
through the copper?
Probably would work just fine. The file does a quick simple job of it
though so I'm not sure I would mess with the etching solution.
-Steve Hatch WTA
From Bob Foley:
Steve Hatch sent us a great diagram for making the stub bridle
turnout. A question Steve, and perhaps it's obvious. Do you leave
the head on the pin under the PC tie, and is there a clearance
problem? Thanks, Bob
Yes leave the head on the pin so it won't pull up through the
pc tie. I use a thin (.030) pc tie for this. If you use
a normal thickness tie, you will need to groove the roadbed
underneath to accomodate the pin head.
This pc tie has no copper on the top and a gap in the copper
the bottom. That way the rail soldered to the top of the
pin, sticks to the pin ONLY and not the tie. The head on the
bottom anchors the rail but allows it to swivel.
The pins become a hinge pins.
-Stephen Hatch WTA
I guess this is probably another obvious question, but I really
don't know much about stub turnouts. I am wondering how the
distance of the throw is determined, as in how much distance is required
between the two sets of stub rails? I was planning on using some hand
throws from Caboose industries, but wonder if these will work for a
stub turnout - the throw there is set. The ground throws I have are
the ones with the auxiliary electrical contacts I would use to power
the points. Comments on this?
I would just measure the throw of the Caboose throw and then
set my pairs of stub ends that far apart. (minus the rail width)
It's probably a bit more than needed for HOn3 but it should work.
I'm prejudiced so I would use Railway's Hand Stands with
auxillary contacts instead. The throw is about right.